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By Peter M. Gianotti The cuisines of France and Germany usually are welcomed on Long Island with the embrace of the Russian winter. So, when a restaurant opens that sports both, it's a risky advance. But Camille's is victorious. The continental eatery, which has aged slightly better than a bottle of Boone's Farm, is warmly reborn here. This is a continental to conclude the 90's, skillfully bringing together dishes that go mainly French and German, sometimes American and Italian, and occasionally the points at which they meet. Camille's owes allegiance to both the nouvelle and the traditional. The look of the place suggests all directions, too. Cool grays are a backdrop for colorful paintings from a school that predates any discussions of Y2K. The establishment has two main areas and they fill up quickly. Service is attentive and accommodating even when the joint is packed. What brings the crowds are flavors subtle and full. The announced house specialty of mussels steamed in white wine is well-seasoned, fragrant, tender, recommended. It is a sizable pot. The duck ravioli is a rather thick pasta, but the stuffing is fine and the truffled demi-glace first-rate. You may have a half-order of the entree pastas. And the fettucine with wild mushrooms and chicken is diverting, truffle-oil spin on the all' Alfredo theme is very good. A roasted eggplant roulade is spiked with oregano and presented with a bull's eye of tangy goat cheese. Caesar salad benefits from aged pecorino cheese. The delicate special of sautéed frog's legs with lemon and capers is an ideal appetizer. The kitchen fashions savory soups. The Alsatian onion soup, under a mantle of Gruyere cheese, is mild and tasty. You'll enjoy it even in July and August. The carrot-and-ginger soup is a satisfying balance of the two. Camille's veers Teutonic with a soulful but surprisingly light union of Bavarian veal sausage, riesling-mellowed sauerkraut and mashed potatoes. The Weiner schnitzel with spaetzle, lemon and parsley is a dependable menu regular. Veal scaloppine is complemented by roasted shallots and sauce Bercy. Deftly sautéed calf's liver has the company of a Vidalia onion confit. The juicy pink roasted rack of lamb materializes with a snappy mint aioli. An artful special is the trois roti of filet mignon, loin of veal and Muscovy duck breast, with a mustard demi-glace. The velvety beef is at the center and the veal and duck rim it for an eye-catching presentation. But the outer rings can be chewy. The clever, broiled pinwheel of salmon and sole glistens from a warm, lemon-caper vinaigrette. The attractive summer competition includes cold, poached salmon with dill-yogurt sauce; pan-seared striped bass with a lemon-chive vinaigrette; and sautéed soft-shell crabs meuniere. Desserts change daily. Among the winners is a caramel-pignoli nut tart, a wedge outlined with Chantilly whipped cream that will make you forget about pecan pie. The coconut creme brulee is workmanlike and pleasing. Likewise, the warm apple-walnut strudel with cinnamon ice cream and the chocolate brownie construct with vanilla ice cream. The berry napoleon looks pretty, but you'd be better off with a fresh fruit plate. The frozen banana soufflé with butterscotch-rum sauce doesn't deliver much flavor. The chocolate marquise with raspberry sauce improves things. You could say that about Camille's, which has found it's niche. |
